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Monuments aside, Upper Egypt marks a subtle shift of character, with the desert closing in on the river and dom palms growing alongside barrel-roofed houses, designed to reflect the intense heat. One of the greatest pleasures to be had here — indeed one of the highlights of any Egyptian trip — is to absorb the river-scape slowly from the vantage point of a felucca. This is easily arranged in Aswan, whence you can sail downriver with no fear of being becalmed; Nile cruise boats and dahabiyas provide a more luxurious experience. While cruises can be booked at short notice in either city, better deals are usually available in Aswan. To impress his power and majesty on the Nubians, Ramses had four gigantic statues of himself hewn from the mountainside, whence his unblinking stare confronted travellers as they entered Egypt from Africa.
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A SPECIAL GUIDE TO CRUISES WORLDWIDE; On the Ancient Nile, a Modern Voyage

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Upper Egypt | Egypt Travel Guide | Rough Guides

PERHAPS, when you think of Egypt, you imagine yourself on a boat, gliding smoothly along the wide green Nile as people have done for thousands of years. Beyond the bulrushes and palm trees that line the shore are small mud-brick villages, each with its own mosque and minaret, flanked by wide fields of black earth being plowed by bullocks. Perhaps you imagine that the pace is very slow: the majestic progress of your boat, the quiet sliding current of the water, the people and oxen on the rich soil, and the vast reaches of time you encounter with each new visit to a temple on shore. If this is what you imagine, you will be partly right, but only partly. A trip on the Nile today gives you two Egypts, one quiet, resonant and absorbing; the other disturbing, exhausting and disheartening. This was our first trip to Egypt: my husband, Tony, myself, and our three children, aged 16 to
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Upper Egypt

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